Mac allister 158cc lawn mower

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New style led headlights. Hydrostatic gearbox. Alko t16 41 inch deck. Honda izy petrol lawnmower 16 inch cut self drive mower very good condition no rut or holes comes with grass bag. Enter your email address to receive alerts when we have new listings available for Drive on lawnmower. By proceeding, you consent to our Legal Notice and acknowledge how we process your personal data and set cookies as described in our Privacy Policy. To see how, and to learn how to control cookies, please read our Privacy Policy and Cookie Policy.

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Lawn mowers should have an oil change after every 20 to 50 hours of use consult your manual or look for info on the engine block for details. If you buy a new mower or engine, the oil sump will usually be empty. Don't forget to add oil before use! Usually there's a label to remind you to do this before starting!

Remember to only make one change at a time and try starting it again, because if you don't, your first brilliant flash of inspiration may sort the problem and the second dumb idea may stop things working again! Ideally you should wear gloves to protect your hands from grime which can irritate sensitive skin, especially if you have to change engine oil or your hands are in contact with gasoline or diesel.

From experience, I've found that vinyl disposables seem to be much more durable than latex though, and withstand contact with oil, grease, and gasoline for short periods. Nitrile rubber gloves are the most resistant to these chemicals. If you dispense with gloves and work barehanded which inevitably happens because it's difficult to handle small parts with gloves , a hand cleanser will do a better job than soap at removing grime.

Note: Tuning an engine refers to the process of adjusting the engine to give optimum performance. Before you start dismantling everything, take some high resolution photos with a digital camera if there is any chance you are going to forget how to reassemble the parts. Also, if lots of washers, bushings, springs, and nuts on a shaft or bolt need to be removed, you can string them onto a piece of wire to keep track of the reassembly sequence. A device called a magneto generates the high voltage, and either mechanically operated points or an electronic switch will trigger the spark at the appropriate moment in the four-stroke cycle.

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However, the spark plug is easy to check out first. On a push mower and other engines without a battery such as chainsaws, trimmers, and motorbikes without batteries , a device called a magneto is used to generate the high voltage spark. Magnetos are even used on piston-engined aircraft for safety reasons, so that battery or alternator failure doesn't result in the engine cutting out. A magneto is sort of a cross between a generator and a transformer and has a primary and secondary coil.

The magneto is mounted adjacent to the flywheel the thing with fins at the top of the mower, which spins. A magnet embedded in the edge of the flywheel induces a pulse of current in the primary coil as it moves rapidly past the poles of the magneto. When the current reaches a peak, a set of switch contacts called points opens, interrupting the current.

This causes the magnetic field in the primary coil to rapidly collapse, inducing a spike of voltage in the secondary coil. This coil, which has lots of turns of wire, steps up the voltage to about 10, volts or more. A capacitor, also known as a condenser, absorbs the current produced by the primary coil enabling the magnetic field to collapse rapidly.

Modern engines have electronic ignition and points are replaced by an electronic switch called a thyristor or SCR Silicon Controlled Rectifier. Some engines such as those on ride-on mowers don't have magnetos, and instead they'll use an on-board battery and an ignition coil to produce a spark—similar to the system on a car. Caution: The threads on a plug are steel, but the engine block and cylinder head are usually aluminum alloys, which is softer than steel.

So the threads can be damaged if you aren't careful. Check that there is no grit or other debris on the threads of the plug or the engine before screwing it in. Make sure the plug doesn't become cross-threaded and don't over tighten it. Ideally, you should use a torque wrench to tighten the plug or when re-attaching the blade on a mower. If you do damage the threads and the plug won't tighten, you can get a Helicoil fitted in a repair shop.

This involves tapping the cylinder head and screwing an insert into place which has internal threads to suit the plug. If you don't get a spark, inspect the wiring on the engine. Just like on a car, the ignition system uses the engine block as a ground, so check to make sure that all ring crimps are screwed down tightly and not loose.

Damaged insulation can short voltage to the engine block. Spades can pull off, and screws holding ring crimps can work their way loose due to vibration. If you still can't produce a spark, there could be a problem at the kill switch. This shuts off the engine by shorting out the coil on the magneto and preventing a spark from being created when the mower is turned off.

The switch is operated when you release the "Dead Man's Handle" on the mower or set the throttle to the stop position. Trace the wire from the magneto coil to find this switch. You will more than likely have to remove the cowl from the top of the engine and possibly the flywheel to check this. Check the switch using the continuity or the lowest ohms range on your meter.

The switch should be open-circuit when the engine is running and a short circuit when the engine is off. Remove one of the connections to the switch when checking. Otherwise, the resistance of the magneto coil will give a false reading. Nowadays, engines have electronic ignition system known as capacitor discharge ignition CDI and the modules can fail, requiring replacement.

If the ignition coil doesn't produce a spark after you've tried a new plug and you've checked the kill switch to make sure it's not shorting out, there's nothing more you can do but replace the module. The resistance of the secondary coil which connects to the spark plug can be measured with a DMM digital multimeter. Read on for more troubleshooting, but try all the easier stuff above before going any further.

Most modern engines have an electronic ignition system. According to Briggs and Stratton, this typically applies to engines manufactured after The engine below is probably about 40 years old and the points need to be cleaned. Dirty contact points can prevent a spark occurring at the plug.

Points in an engine are basically a switch which opens when the current through the coil of the spark generating device the ignition coil or magneto is at its maximum. This creates a spike of voltage at the spark plug. These points can be come tarnished or corroded and pitted over time and need to be cleaned. A rubber oil seal is fitted at the exit point of the crankshaft from the sump, and at the top of the engine block. If the engine tends to misfire no sparks occurs in a cycle , it can be due to oil getting past this seal and splattering over the points.

A pool of oil in the points compartment is evidence of this. It is somewhat of an ordeal to get at the points which are usually under the flywheel of the engine. Troubleshooting books and guides often advise checking whether fuel is actually reaching the engine by removing and examining the spark plug after several pulls of the starter cord. It should be damp but a wet plug indicates flooding. However by the time the plug is removed and if weather is warm, any dampness can evaporate, so this isn't a totally reliable method of identifying a problem with the carburetor.

Fuel flows from the tank to the carburetor. The function of this device is to create an explosive mist of fuel mixed with air, which is sucked into the engine to be burned and provide power. An air filter cleans the incoming air to prevent malfunction and damage to the engine. Several problems in this section of the engine can cause difficulty in starting or loss of power. These include:.

The carburetor should make a good seal with the engine by being screwed or clamped on tightly, and any gaskets or o-rings shouldn't be worn or damaged. The function of an air filter is to remove dust, grit, grass, and other grime from the airstream before it enters the engine. Without a filter, this material would scour the piston and cylinder, causing premature wear of the engine over time. Dirt would also clog the tiny jets which fuel flows from inside the carburetor. The air filter must be clean for optimum engine operation.

A dirty, clogged air filter will starve an engine of oxygen, causing a reduction in power, excess fuel consumption or flooding of the carburetor, and difficulty in starting. Foam elements can be washed in hot water and soap to remove oil and dirt. Next, squeeze the foam dry in a cloth. Pour a teaspoon of motor oil onto the foam and massage it evenly through the element the function of the oil is to catch dust passing through the foam. It is possible to clean some of the dust from a paper filter by blowing from the inside with compressed air.

These type of filters, however, should ideally be replaced. The choke is simply a flat disk mounted on a shaft in the air intake of the carburetor, known as a butterfly valve. When you turn on the choke, the shaft is turned so that the disk blocks the airflow, and there is greater suction in the intake. This allows more fuel to be sucked in and also makes for easier starting. Chokes are usually automatic but can be manual on some engines. In this case, they must be turned on when starting an engine and then turned off after the engine has been running for several seconds. If an engine is hot, leaving the choke on will likely flood the carburetor and cause difficulty starting.

A kinked or blocked fuel line between the tank and float bowl can restrict fuel flow to the engine. If the fuel tank is located above the carburetor, it is likely to be a float bowl type. See photo below. Dirt and gum are the greatest enemies of carburetors, since they may contain several narrow passageways through which fuel flows. Over time, gum deposits can narrow these passageways. Also, minute particles of dust contained in fuel will bypass a fuel filter and make their way into the carburetor.

This can also clog everything up. A proprietary carburetor cleaner can be used to clean everything out.

The float and bowl work like a toilet cistern, keeping the fuel at a constant level so that it can be sucked up into the carburetor. The buoyancy of the float causes it to rise.

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When the gas in the bowl reaches a set level, a needle at the top of the float is forced into a valve seat, shutting off entry of fuel into the bowl. Without this system, gas would just gravity-feed into the carburetor, flooding it. If your lawn mower won't stay running for more than a few minutes, the chances are that the float bowl isn't filling or is filling very slowly. If it fills slowly, the mower cuts out, but can often be re-started after it's been left for a while because the bowl re-fills. O-rings and gaskets can shrink, crack, and lose their elasticity over time. Replace any parts that show signs of aging.

Larger engines, for example, those on ride on mowers may incorporate a solenoid valve on the float bowl. The solenoid is an electromagnet that opens a valve when voltage is applied to the coil, allowing fuel to flow. Check with a multimeter that voltage is being applied to the coil. This also applies to starter motor solenoids. Also, solenoids can get stuck, or the valve can become clogged. Some tanks are located below the carburetor, where a pump-and-weir system is used.

This is the scenario on small Briggs and Stratton engines. The carburetor in these photos has an automatic choke. Upon engine start-up, the choke is held closed by a linkage attached to the diaphragm membrane. Once the engine starts, suction from the carburetor venturi gradually pulls down on a section of the membrane over a period of a few seconds, opening the choke via the linkage. The suction force acts through a small ridge in the surface of the tank, seen in the photo above. If this ridge becomes blocked, the choke plate will stay closed, flooding the carburetor.

A punctured diaphragm has symptoms that include a lack of response when the mixture screw is turned clockwise, and also the engine continues to run even when the mixture screw is fully tightened all the way clockwise. The engine will run erratically, splutter, and misfire due to excessive fuel, and there may also be black smoke. The diaphragm normally becomes worn and punctured in the circular section which pumps the fuel. You can check for holes by holding it up against a bright light or the sun. The only solution is a replacement part. The carburetor's function is to mix fuel and air into a mist, which then gets sucked into the engine to be burned.

The jet works exactly the same as the nozzle on a garden hose, producing a fine spray of gas particles. Unless someone has turned this screw since the last time you used your mower, this is unlikely to be a problem.

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However, sometimes grime or gum can clog the valve. To adjust the mixture:. Small engines use a simple gravity feeding system to fill the float bowl. Larger engines, such as those on lawn tractors, require a greater flow rate of gas. Also, the gas tank may be located lower than the carburetor. So a fuel pump may be required. These pumps can be electric powered, use a rod from the camshaft to operate a diaphragm in the pump or rely on the suction in the carburetor via a hose to operate the diaphragm a diaphragm is a disk of flexible material pushed backwards and forwards to pump fuel.

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Typical faults in pumps are a loss of voltage to the pump, a clogged filter in the pump, disconnected air hose, punctured diaphragm, or the seizing up of components of the pump. Larger engines with an electrical system sometimes have a low oil level float switch. This prevents the engine from being started and damaged if the oil in the sump is below a threshold level. While fuel and a good spark are essential for an engine to start, good compression is also important. You can get a rough idea of compression by sticking your thumb over the hole into which the plug screws and pulling the starter cord or turning the flywheel if this is easier.

You should be able to feel the pressure on your thumb. However with the spark plug back in place, if compression is severely compromised, the starter cord will be easy to pull, with no resistance. I actually experienced a compressions issue with my mower this morning even though it isn't terribly old. The cord was easy to pull with no resistance, so I assume a valve got stuck. After leaving the engine for about an hour, the problem resolved, maybe because oil worked its way into the stuck tappets or valve stems.

By looking into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, or removing an inspection cover over a compartment known as the valve chest which provides access to the tappets, you will be able to see whether a valve is sticking open. Some engines have OHV or overhead valves, and again access is possible by removing an access cover. Valves can be freed by spraying WD40 into the valve seat and onto the stems. However, this may be beyond the ability of the amateur.

If the cylinder head needs to be removed, on replacement, bolt tightening should be in a staggered sequence and bolts should ideally be tightened back into place with a torque wrench. Spitting can also be caused by a mixture which is set too lean, requiring the mixture screw to be turned anti-clockwise to richen it see procedure above. Another cause of spitting is a sheared flywheel key, causing the timing to be off and the spark plug to fire at the wrong instant. This is caused by oil being burnt in the engine. While a certain amount of oil is consumed and burned under normal circumstances, clouds of blue smoke indicate a problem.

Old engines emit smoke as the cylinder wears bore wear and the piston and rings no longer fit so well. Excess oil gets up into the cylinder and is burned. Fractured piston rings can allow lots of oil to get into the cylinder. Burning oil can also be caused by a faulty breather allowing oil to get blown out from the sump and then sucked into the engine via the carburetor if there is a tube linking the breather to the carburetor. Yet, another cause is an over-filled sump.

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On one occasion, my neighbor and her helpful friend decided to top-up the mower with oil, and being generous, they decided to fill the oil to the brim of the oil fill plug. The result? Thick clouds of white smoke which I could see in the distance! Yours truly had to save the day and drain some oil out of the mower!

Black smoke is an indicator of too much gas being burned. This can be caused by an over-rich mixture adjust the mixture screw , a faulty or punctured diaphragm in the carburetor, a choke not opening when the engine starts or a dirty air filter. A cable runs from the throttle control on the mower's handle to the governor mechanism adjacent to the carburetor. The governor varies the angle to which a valve in the carburetor called a butterfly valve or throttle plate is open or closed, controlling engine speed.

Small engines, such as those on lawn mowers, usually have an aluminum flywheel, and the added weight of the blade actually forms part of the flywheel system. If you are familiar with mechanics a branch of physics , you will know this increases the moment of inertia of the system. If the blade is removed, it will be difficult to start the engine because of insufficient spin momentum when you pull the starter cord.

To prevent starting problems next season, run the mower until it cuts out from lack of fuel. This should clear most of the fuel from the carburettor and bowl and help to prevent everything gumming up. To prevent corrosion, let the mower cool down, remove the spark plug and put a teaspoon of oil through the plug hole. Pull the starter cord a couple of times and replace the plug. Remove all caked-on grass from the underside of the deck as this can ferment, become acidic and eat its way through the metal over time.

Briggs and Stratton Oil Recommendations. If you can't get your mower started, maybe it's time to buy a new one! Check out my guide to Choosing and Buying a Lawn Mower which discusses the pros and cons of electric, gas, and battery models. I don't fix lawn equipment professionally, but I learned all this stuff by messing around with engines since I was a teenager, and have gained about thirty years experience with lawn mowers, string trimmers, and hedge cutters.

Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters. My Husqvarna, which has only been used once or twice, has a 6. It is an all-wheel drive. It was given to me. It will start, and if I manually choke it by using a finger on the carb intake, it will run. Otherwise, it cranks for a few seconds and then quits. It will run as long as I am choking it. It has no idle control, is in new condition, and is kept in the garage.

What do I do? Sometimes at the start of a season, an engine will struggle to start because the carburetor is empty of fuel. If the engine has a primer button, it needs to be pressed about eight times, or as recommended in the startup procedure. When the engine cuts out, try pressing the primer about five times again before you attempt to restart. The obvious thing to check is that the mower hasn't run out of fuel. Try starting again and check that you have a spark.

Dirt or water in the float bowl can cause spluttering, and the mower may stop. If the ignition coil fails, the engine will stop suddenly This happened to me a few days ago. In this event, the coil will need to be replaced. Sign in or sign up and post using a HubPages Network account. Comments are not for promoting your articles or other sites.

Hi Willie, all I can suggest is that you check all the normal things, plug is sparking ok, float bowl doesn't have any debris in it, jet is clear use compressed air to clear it if you have a blow gun , clean the air filter etc. It's possible that the gasket isn't sealing properly or bit's of rubber have got into the carburetor and blocked something. Try taking off the bowl of the carburetor and see if there's debris accumulated in it. I cleaned out my carburetor, cleaned my spark plug and replaced the air filter on my lawn boy mower which has a kohler engine. As soon as I put the carburetor back on, it started up fine and ran for a couple minutes just to test it before I shut it off.

The seal right behind the air filter housing looks pretty worn. Small pieces are coming off around where the threads go through. There are two possible things that could have happened. The flywheel key which stops the flywheel turning on the shaft could have sheared as the flywheel tried to keep turning when the crankshaft and blade slowed down rapidly as the blade hit the rope. The other scenario is that the blade stopped and the crankshaft kept turning, shearing the key at the bottom of the shaft or destroying the inside of the blade carrier.

I ran over a thick rope and it killed engine on mower. Well i got all the rope out fron around blades now the mower will not start. The mower has been used maybe 4 times. Someone please let me know how to get this mower started. Thank you. Eugene, the push rods do NOT move when the engine is turned. Although they are movable when I press the valve spring to take pressure off of them. I will just sell it to someone for ancillary parts at this point.

It was an interesting learning experience. I do appreciate your expert advice and time. Wish you the best. I'll see if I can find an exploded diagram and have a think about it. In the meantime, you could post on Brigs's forum I'll look for the link. They'll probably refer you to a service agent though. It is an OHV engine so, I removed the valve cover and rotated the flywheel to watch the valves. They are closed and yet move freely when I press them. I removed the nut on the flywheel and removed the cooling fins to expose the shaft. The flywheel key is not sheared.

I am about ready to scrap this project- if i just wasn't so determined to solve problems. Hmm, seems like you're doing everything right. I just had to replace the magneto on my mower the other day, and although it wasn't totally identical, and mounting holes were in different positions in the core of the new one actually off a scrapped engine, free, courtesy of my local hire shop! The experts on Lawnmowerforum reckon there's lots of different types and a mower may not run properly if it doesn't have the proper coil. Do you think you definitely have the proper part? I would check the jet is clean in the carburetor, maybe blow air through it from an air compressor blow gun if you have one.

What can happen is tiny bits of rubber from gaskets or the primer button if there is one , can get stuck in the jet. This happened to me once. Is the inlet valve feeding the bowl shutting off properly and opening ok? To check this, I normally use a vice grips on the fuel line to shut off flow. Then I push up on the float, release the vice grips, confirm there's no flow, then let the float down to see if fuel flows.

I wonder could one of the valves be stuck open? You might be able to see them through the spark plug hole, by removing a valve chest cover or if it's an OHV engine, removing the cover over the valves. It was running last December. I did not completely drain the fuel system and in March went to start it again.

It started up fine. I put it back in storage and went to start it a couple weeks later- nothing. I checked the spark plug and spark. Spark plug was like new, but no spark. I ordered a new magneto and replaced it. Spark came back, but- still would not start. I could smell fuel vapor coming from the cylinder while the plug was out. I took the carburetor off, and cleaned it and put it back on with new gaskets, drained the fuel, took of the tank and cleaned it.

Fresh fuel. Still not starting. I did notice the bowl on the carburetor was a bit dirty when cleaning so, I ordered a brand new carburetor, a filter and a shutoff valve. I installed the valve inline next to the tank, then the filter, then the new carburetor and gasket kit. I took off the pull start mechanism as my arm was getting tired and used a 24mm socket on the flywheel nut and my battery drill set on the low spin setting rpm to turn over the engine.

It could be, but as I understand it, compression release mechanisms work on the exhaust valve, keeping it partly open at low revs during startup to make for easier starting. A 4 stroke engine has a compression ratio of between 6 and 10 to 1, which would be 90 to psi. As I wrote in my last post, I disassembly my engine completly, also valves. It is flat head engine, so I can see valve movment during start, if I romove small cover on the side of engine. Valves are clean, and work really arrording cam shaft. The problem is that during compresion stroke, even in slow manual movment, the intake valve is not fully closed.

There is very thin gap, and it is gone as soon as piston reach TDC. This is my doubt, I have never met such construction in car engines. I thought it can be some kind decompresion solution, in high RPM the time when intake valve has this gap is so smal, that it does not metter. But if I'm wrong, my compresion rate PSI is bad, good, or very good? A friend had a problem with a lawn mower tractor once. The engine continually spit and backfired and it turned out that the exhaust valve was stuck open.

We freed it by removing the cylinder head and spraying WD40 down under the open valve and it loosened the valve stem. If you can feel under pressure and over pressure, it sounds as though the intake valve is partially open at least, and the over pressure occurs when mixture is pushed back out the valve during the compression stroke. A spring returns the valve to the closed position. I'm not sure whether this is the case with all engines, but if there's a gap between the tappet and valve stem and the valve is open, it could be sticking and the spring not pushing it closed.

On the end of last summer the engine had stoped with black somke. As you mention in your advises the air-fuel mixture was to rich. I cleaned the carburator, but motor was still dead. During winter time I focused on the issue, and found out, the compresion was very low, arround 3 bars. In that case I decided to disassembly whole engine. Piston rings was exchanged, valve job done with clearence, all seals new. After this actions the compresion is 7 bars PSI , there is new spark plug, no problem with spark, and engine still does not starts.

What I found during diferent tests, is that if ther is no carburator, and I start engine suppling it with fuel by manual jet, I can see that te fuel is blowed out back via intake manifold. If I put my hand to manuifold, I can fell underpressure and overpressure, one after the other. Is it normal? One addiltionat remark, I can see very smal gap on the intake valve during compresion stroke. It is fully closed after TDC. Have you had similar case in the past? What do you think about it? That's a new one! Anyway glad you found out what was wrong. I would never have thought of that in a million years!

I found the problem with why my mower would not start - what i thought was new clean petrol was instead less inflammable diesel that my girlfriend had mistakenly filled the jerry can with! It could also be stamped into the cowl, or you might have to remove the cowl to see the numbers marked somewhere on the engine block. I just took a look at the cowl from the old Briggs engine in the photos above. It was difficult to see the number because the paint had rusted off.

If the number is embossed, it might be easier to read it from the inside. Thanks Eugene for the time and attention you have put into this article. Would you know where I can find the engine model number for my old 3. I wonder is there oil lodging somewhere in the carburetor since the mower was turned on it's side? Unfortunately these plates have to be replaced after removal. However there was no improvement when you tried a new carburetor, but there could be some other reason why that didn't work troubleshooting seems simple but isn't always! Have you tried blowing carb cleaner up into the jet of the carburetor to see whether it emerges ok into the venturi?

It sounds as though the carb just isn't sucking fuel properly. I'm not quite sure how the float bowl is vented to the atmosphere or whether it even needs to because fuel flowing in replaces fuel flowing out. If air can't get into the bowl as fuel leaves, the drop in pressure in the venturi won't allow fuel to be sucked into the airflow. I need to do some research on this or you can if you like! Search for "carburetor bowl venting on lawn mower". The electrical system appears fine - testing the plug held against the mower body I see a spark plus it will start and run for 2 or 3 seconds if I spray carb cleaner through the carb choke plate inlet.

The compression seems okay also as I feel plenty of pressure holding my thumb against the plug hole. The linkages are also working okay - the choke activates in the choke position and the throttle link is moving back and forth. If I spray carb cleaner into the spark hole and pull the cord it sprays the carb cleaner back out the hole - this is why I figured I should see spray that has come from the carb by pulling the cord.

I've since checked this by sticking a bit of kitchen towel through the choke inlet into the venturi to confirm that it gets wet so the carb appears to be doing its job. Note: further background on the problem - the last time that the mower was used it was tipped on it's side the wrong way which soaked the air filter - after which it was run for about another hour on the same day with the choke on to finish mowing the lawn as it would die if moved from the choke position to the run position.

It was when replacing the air filter a few days later and trying to start it that I found it would not start at all anymore, at which point I pulled the carb off and proceeded trying things as per below. I can't see why the mower is not running if even really badly - could bad seals between the carb and the cylinder stop it from starting at all? I don't think I've ever seen anything coming out the spark plug hole, but that's probably because it was on the opposite side to the starter cord.

Is the mower sparking ok? Have you tried a new plug? The ignition module could be giving trouble and internal insulation breaking down. How is compression? You would need to put your thumb over the plug hole while an assistant pulls the cord. There should be definite pressure on your thumb. If I spray carb cleaner into the carb then the mower will start for a second or two. I've checked the fuel line which is fine and the carb bowl fills with fuel.

I've tried pulling the carb off and cleaning it as per various youtube videos which has not worked. I've tried a new carb non genuine part plus new gaskets and new air filter except for the guide comp plate with attached gaskets ZM which looks fine and for which I don't have a replacement. As far as I can tell I've installed the gaskets correctly with the air intake holes in the correct positions.

If I take the spark plug out and pull the starter cord I don't get any mist coming out of the spark plug hole not sure what is normal to see coming out though. Those 2 earthlink links don't seems to work. I can't find any references to to that carburetor no or code either. Sorry for my absence. I also have a Homelite string trimmer not working and switched to it because I thought it might be the quicker fix.

Hasn't panned out, but I'll try to address that on the appropriate page. I removed the gas tank to get a better view of the carburetor and came to realize that part is actually present. The black triangular shape with the hole left and round peg right which is just left of the square cut hole is the top of the choke shaft. I don't see anything connected to it to make it move and thought that might be the missing part. The only spring I cannot account for is item a, part , identified as no longer available.

You can't see it here, but I've been able to identify the carburetor as an LMS Also, my code date is Maybe this part is not necessary at all. I am pushing the lever I thought the missing spring would have to attach to. This stretches the Governor Spring, , which all but hides I thought the missing spring would run from the notch above my finger to the left to the black peg on the choke shaft top. I was also surprised to find a lot of free play with the governor arm visible in the top left corner of the photo.

Is this normal? Am beginning to wonder if this repair is beyond my ability. I think I could succeed with rebuilding the carburetor but I'm not sure it is the whole solution. What do you recommend? Also, your google drive link didn't work for me. I think the ellipses in the link truncate it and thus break it. Is this the same document you are referring to? I cant think of anything else Waseem.

Is it sparking ok? If it has a float bowl type carburetor, check it's filling ok and that the inlet valve shuts off. Check the jet is clean also. HI Eugene. Thanks for your earlier advice. I have tried the above points you mentioned however its still not working. Is there anything else i can do before refering it to the proffesional???

Remove the air filter and check it isn't fouled with oil. If the filter is paper and soaked in oil, it should be replaced. Foam filters can be washed in hot water as described above. Check there's no oil in the air intake to the carburetor. You can tip the mower at an acute angle, about 20 degrees, to drain any oil which may have collected in the carburetor.

If you've repeatedly pulled the starter cord, you may have flooded the engine, so leave the mower for a while and if possible take out the plug to allow excess petrol to evaporate. I have got mountfield petrol lawn mower. Acidentally i tilt it to the side and now it wont start.

Mower will not engage - wheels do not move forward

I have changed a spark plug, oil and new petrol but it still wont start. Any help please????? I don't think the bowl is screwed. The exploded parts diagram doesn't show much detail, but usually the bowls are held on with the bowl nuts. Part is the bowl gasket, which could have deteriorated and become "sticky" gluing everything together:. If you wrap a cloth tightly around the bowl, you may be able to get a better grip to twist it and try and release it. Don't use a pipe wrench or similar because it could cause damage. You could try warming the bowl, e.

In the link above, Briggs also say that there are two versions of part I was incorrect in an earlier post. The number you quoted is indeed the engine model and type number. I'm still looking for a photo. I've posted a request on a forum, so we'll see what that turns up. Regarding the carburetor, I took out the bowl screw and caught the dirty fuel, but the bowl didn't drop off as expected.

I didn't try to force it off at the time, because I didn't have a kit or gaskets to service it further. Do you think it should be serviced because of the dirty fuel and if so, is the bowl threaded? How does it twist off? You need to know the mower model number and engine number, is actually the carburetor number:. Carburetors vary somewhat in design. The one on my Tecumseh engine has a bowl nut with an intake hole. Fuel flows in through this hole and out through a jet inside the nut and then via a nozzle into the carburetor. On some carburetors, the bowl nut has an additional small hole through which fuel is drawn when the engine is idling.

Your carburetor must be drawing fuel in through an alternative route. In the meantime, I'll see if I can track down a photo myself. Your excellent article emboldened me to try to fix my lawnmower that won't start, but I'm stuck. I tried to check the carburetor bowl and nut as you suggested. I got dirty gas from the bowl and the nut did not have any holes in it. Was wondering if this was because the mower is so old?

Can you tell me if part Link-Governor is the missing part to connect the throttle to the choke? It is hard for me to tell for certain from the manual. I think page 4 is the relevant page. What else am I missing here? This sounds like there's an issue with one of the valves. Just to be sure there isn't oil in the cylinder causing a hydraulic lock i.

Alternatively either of the valves or push rods may be rusted or gummed up with varnish so they don't slide easy. If you remove the cover over the valves, you should be able to see which one isn't moving. On an OHV engine, removing the cover exposes the valves, push rods and rocker arm. On a side valve flat block or l-block engine, there is usually a plate which can be removed which exposes the valves.

Ideally valves should be removed and cleaned. You could try to use penetrating oil e. WD40 and to spray it down onto the valve stems and see if that solves the problem. I was scrolling and scrolling looking at everything and I thought to myself Eugene really really really really wants me to scroll to the end. Alas, my problem is not addressed here. Which means that when I tried to pull it with the starting ripcord it's very difficult and it never gets going fast enough to even try to start, so there is something physical going on inside.

If this would cost more than, say, 20 American dollars to fix then I should probably just get rid of this mower and buy a new one. What do you think? I bought the mower brand new, yes, that's potentially a plus. But it was about six or seven years ago so the whole thing is now that old so that's potentially a minus. But despite that everything else is still extremely sturdy as if it had aged well, appearing to be an extremely good condition the Killswitch is perfect the cable for the kill switches perfect the ripcord is fine, so that's, again, a potential plus.

But if this problem is internal and involves something physical to the inside of the engine I think that would spell m-o-n-e-y and would also spell not-financially-viable-to-repair and would change the outcome of the repair vs replace question to replace. Do you have any thoughts? Thank you so much, both now and in advance! Thanks so much for the insight. The battery cost more than what I paid for the mower, so if won't run without it I will just use it for parts.

Some newer engines use lithium ion batteries for electric start. Never try to charge these with a conventional lead acid charger. When replacing batteries, remove the fuse in the harness cable first, then disconnect the battery cables. I'm out of my depth as regards electric start mowers, but the batteries are normally gel, lead acid types with a typical capacity of about 20 AH. You could buy a three stage charger suitable for this capacity battery or whatever's marked on it and ideally charge it while it's disconnected and removed from the mower or alternatively with the cables to the engine disconnected and the battery in place.

If you do that, it's vitally important to avoid croc clips touching the chassis of the mower. However the chances are that the battery is permanently dead, meaning a replacement. See if you can get the engine cranking a few more times with the spray. This should warm it up so that it is less reluctant to start. Check again that the float is working ok, the bowl is filling, there is no debris in the bowl and the jet is completely clean. Spray carb cleaner into the jets to remove any stufff that could be clogging them up.

I just bought a used one season craftsman self propelled, electric start platinum mower at an estate sale. I was told it had been in storage for two years looked like new, guess that sucked me in , and that the charger for the electric start had been lost. But was assured it would work with the pull start. Well, so far it doesn't caveat emptor. I have a basic knowledge of older Briggs and Stratton engines from my teens but now a senior citizen, just like cars and phones, I'm behind. I put in fresh oil and gas and replaced the spark plug but it would not start.

I then checked to see if the plug sparked, checked fuel line and compression, still wouldn't start. I removed the carburetor, cleaned it, checked jets, seals, float and air filter but no luck turning over. I did use a spray of starter fluid and it would briefly crank. Since it doesn't have points, primer bulb or throttle anymore, I've reached the end of my small engine knowledge. Could a completely dead battery on this type mower have anything to do with it?

I don't have a clue of what to do next except count my losses, can you give me some direction? Hi Paul - How do you know the spark plugs are definitely blown? Usually a plug will either end up with worn electrodes or possibly an internal crack in the plug can cause the electricity to take a short cut inside the plug. An integrated EMI preventing resistor inside the plug could also get shorted out. Do you get a spark across the gap of the plug when it is removed from the engine?

Check your cabling first and make sure the plug lead is pushed firmly into the plug boot. Try some more plugs and test them for a spark before inserting in the engine. If you're certain the ignition is at fault, here's a video on replacing the coil not specifically on a GXV, but the procedure would be similar. Every time it just blows the plug. If there was a pin hole in the float it would eventually sink, allowing fuel to rise in bowl, eventually flooding carburettor. You could try looking into carburetor before starting to see if this is happening.

Check also that plug isn't sooting up due to excess fuel and stopping the engine. Does the engine work ok and run for 15 seconds after it's left for a period? This would indicate that fuel isn't filling the bowl and it gets used up, however you say that the bowl is full. After the engine cuts out, will it start again and run for a further 15 seconds? Could be something in the ignition module breaking down when it gets hot. Is oil level ok and does blade turn ok? I'm currently working on an engine which runs for about 15 seconds and then stops. Turns out the "splasher" on the connecting rod which throws oil around the inside of the engine had broken off.

Hi Eugbug, ty for the prompt reply. No primer fitted , fuel bowl clean. Air filter looking a bit ratty. I have test run the engine in the past without air filter fitted and it ran ok without it. I had just put it all back together again and i realised that i didn't check to see if the float had a pin hole or some sort of leak i wonder if that could be the prob.

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I've run out of time for now, i will check that tomorrow. Hi Dave, is the float bowl definitely filling? The bowl may be full when you check it, but it could be filling very slowly so that it empties once the engine runs. Remove the bowl while holding a container underneath to catch the petrol. Check that it flows freely, if not you either have a blocked fuel filter or inlet valve to the bowl.

Check also that there is no debris floating about in the bowl which would clog the main jet. If the engine has a primer, check that fuel is getting up into the carb if you press it a lot. You may be able to see this if the air filter is removed. Hi i have pope spitfire 4 stroke.

Engine starts runs great for 15 seconds then just stops. Hi Sandra, follow the starting procedure above andor the instructions which should come with your mower. If it's a push mower, you may have to prime it before starting. Usually there's a push button near the fuel tank which you have to push and release 5 or 6 times before you pull the starter rope. Hi Vikas. Basically you need to use a continuity checker to trace the wiring and make sure power is getting to the motor. Do the same for neutral. Then you can determine whether or not there is a break in the conductors.

Possibility the push button is at fault but there could also be a break in the windings of the motor. If there are just two wires coming out of the motor, check that you have continuity between these wires.